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Glory to Jesus Christ!

My son, John, age 15, and I just returned from a 17 day backpack pilgrimage in Spain.

After leaving Phoenix on Friday at around noon, we arrived in Madrid, Barajas Airport, on Saturday morning, July 18. We negotiated the Metro and arrived at Atocha Rail Station. From Atocha we took the 40 minute train to Toledo, were we took in the sights enjoyed a dinner of tapas. On Sunday we attended the Sunday celebration of the lauds/matins and mass according to the Mozarabic Rite. Interestingly, the Mozarabic Mass uses Greek texts that correspond to the Byzantine Divine Liturgy. The Sanctus is repeated in Greek, "agios, agios, agios, kyrie o theos..." In the Communion rite, the Greek text intoned by the priest while elevated the host is, "agios o agia," which was translated into castellano as, "El Santo por los santos!"

Sunday afternoon we left Toledo and returned to Madrid via train. Again using the Metro we made our way from Atocha station to Chamartin station. We left Madrid late Sunday night for Sarria, Galicia. We arrived in Sarria at about 6 AM, and began the 100+ km pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela.

Over the next 5 days we completed the 100+ km journey on foot until we reached Santiago de Compostela on July 25, the feast day of Santiago and the Spanish national holiday. With no planned itinerary, we truly experienced a pilgrimage among the hills and valleys of the Galician countryside. Among the weather (rain, heat, humidity), forests and meadows, the aching feet, the early morning wake-ups, the laundry, the daily prayer, mass, etc, we came to appreciate an old Spaniish proverb, "Con sangre, la letra entra." One of the spiritural fruits of this pilgrimage was a further development of an even closer relationship with my eldest son. This is a pilgrimage that we'll both cherish for the rest of our lives.

The highlight of the pilgrims' mass of thanksgiving at the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela is the botafumeiro . I added a link to a youtube video.

Botafumeiro Santiago de Compostela July 25, 2008 [youtube.com]

After a stay in Santiago de Compostela, we left for Barcelona, Catalunya via bus on Sunday July 27 for four days of beach fun and museum visits. We returned to Madrid via train on August 1, for more museums and a bullfight at the Plaza de Toros Sunday evening.

We returned yesterday Monday, August 4.

Oh my, , it is so exciting to hear about your experience, Father Deacon John. I have a deep love for Spain and I've always wanted to make this pilgrimage.Did you attend mozarabic liturgies the entire trip? It only took 5 days?! I thought it took much longer than that; at least a month.I have no money, but I'd like to find a way to go as a graduation present from school!
I hope you don't mind if I send you a PM for more details should I ever be blessed with the opportunity to do this. I ask for your prayers.

I'm glad you and your son were able to do this,what a blessing.

Peace,
Indigo

Indigo,

Gloria a Jesucristo!

This traditional romeria along the camino frances is a 33 day journey on foot. We actually began the camino in Sarria, Galiza (Galicia) 100+ km east of Santiago de Compostela. We began here given time restraints and the fact that the Office for Pilgrims at the Cathedral of Santiago requires that the last 100 km of the camino is travelled on foot in order to acquire la compostela . La compostela is a certificate issued by the Office of Pilgrims which acknowledges the pilgrimage and the visit to the tomb of Saint James the Apostle was made " pietatis causa ."

Traveling with la credencial would allow you stay in the albergues. These are dormitory type lodgings along the camino, which allows the pilgrim refuge for the evening at a cost of a donation (government owned) to about $18.00 (privately owned) per person. Depending on spending and eating habits, you could make the pilgrimage on about $40-$50 per day. (If you budget correctly, you could conceivably make the pilgrimage on $30.00 per day... lodging at the goverment owned albergues, cooking your own meals, washing clothes by hand, etc) Your biggest expense would be the flight to Spain. La credencial is also the document reviewed by the Office of Pilgrims to verify your journey. The pilgrim receives the sello or stamp on la credencial from the albergues, churches, restaurants, or any other site that provides hospitality to the pilgrim.

The misa mozarabe is limited to Toledo and a few other parishes outside of Toledo (Madrid and Salamanca, come to mind), so no, we did not attend the misa mozarabe, save for the one Sunday mass in the Cathedral of Toledo.

I plan to travel again in 5 and 11 more years when my 2nd and 3rd sons are 15, respectively. (May God grant me many more healthful years!)

That is wonderful, Deacon John.
Could you scan the document and post it for us to see?

Thanks in advance.

Elizabeth Maria-


I'm not very savvy when it comes to the scanner, so here's a link to a facsimile of the original Latin document and an English translation:

La Compostela y la credencial [archicompostela.org]

On another note... I should have explained how we spiritually began our pilgrimage:

the morning of our departure from Phoenix, my son and I visited the ProCathedral of Saint Stephen to receive the Holy Mystery of Reconciliation. Afterwards, I asked Father Rector to give the following pilgrims' blessing from the 12 Century Codex Calixtinus-

"God, You called your servant Abraham from Ur in Chaldea, watching over him in all his wanderings, and guided the Hebrew people as they crossed the desert. Guard these your children who, for love of your Name, make a pilgrimage to Compostela. Be their companion on the way, their guide at the crossroads, their strength in weariness, their defense in dangers, their shelter on the path, their shade in the heat, their light in darkness, their comfort in discouragement, and the firmness of their intentions; that though your guidance, they may arrive safely at the end of their journey and, enriched with grace and virture, may return to their homes filled with salutary and lasting joy. Amen."

This blessing was prayed over the pilgrims after every mass along the Camino (in castellano).